A suggestion for anticipating alterations in wave action on shores consequent upon changes in water depths in harbors and coastal waters

Abstract

from the introduction, "The most important fact to keep in mind is that ocean surface waves, like any waves, transmit energy. In the end, that energy, whose original source was the energy of the wind, is expended on the shore where it plays an important role in coastal erosion. The direction in which the wave energy is transmitted and which part of the coastline it will attack depends on the wave length and the depth of the water in which it runs. . ."